![]() Muzzle Breaks tend to be a little more efficient if they are slightly larger than a sporting barrel taper. Be advised they all tend to make the guns sound louder an not pleasant to beside when they are being shot. There are many good breaks comercially availible. One is by making the brake for a particular bullet or make the break adjustable simular to how Winchester and Browning do it. This can be accomplished by a number of ways. To maximize a break the bullet bearing surface should be entering either a baffle or the end bore of the brake when the rear bearing surface is exiting the barrel. These small tight threads tend not to loosen as much as larger threads and they require less stress when cuting. The barrel should be threaded for at least. The tighter the exit hole the more effecient. The exit hole of course needs to be concentric with the bore. Your porting needs to be concentric if it is not more than 60 percent open. Also remember that you need to have the barrel crowned inside the muzzle brake. When reducing the external diameter of the muzzle, take as small of cuts as you can as to not stress the barrel at the muzzle. Here are a few things you should think about. There are muzzle brakes that are engineered to reduce recoil and remain accurate. It aint a rocket science, just keep it in line with the bore. Don't just drill a hole and hope it is perfectly concentric with the bore. Meaning, you need to set up the barrel dead nuts, thread it, install the brake, then drill the exit hole while the barrel is indicated. Be as careful in drilling the exit hole as you do in indicating the barrel in. The more you turn off the OD of the muzzle, the more likely the internal dimensions will open up. Keep the threaded end of the barrel as full diameter as possible. I have seen brakes that actually squeek from the gas being restricted. I've done both and can't see a difference.Ī couple things, make sure there are enough holes to release the gas. Other brakes are much longer in chamber length that the bullet is clearly still inside the chamber while gases are released. I have read of theories of having the brake chamber short enough that the bullet will exit at the same time the gases are released. Most of the others are nothing more than a threaded chamber which has a series of relief holes, and an exit hole. REFERENCE THE TABLE TO ENSURE APPROPRIATE BRAKE/MUZZLE FIT.I don't think you really need a drawing, you could look at a bunch of them in a Brownell's catalog and see that they vary some, but the principal is the same. INSTALLING A SMALLER CALIBER BRAKE ON A LARGER CALIBER RIFLE WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE BRAKE AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY. ALWAYS MAKE SURE NO ONE IS NEAR THE BARREL, AS BLAST TO ALL SIDES CAN BE SEVERE. ALWAYS WEAR SUITABLE HEARING PROTECTION WHEN FIRING A RIFLE WITH A MUZZLE BRAKE INSTALLED AS NOISE LEVELS ARE INCREASED. CLEAR THE CHAMBER AND MAGAZINE OF ALL AMMUNITION, THEN USE ASSEMBLY TOOL TO CHECK FOR TIGHTNESS OF BRAKE BEFORE SHOOTING AND AFTER EACH 5 SHOTS. THREADED OBJECTS HAVE A TENDENCY TO LOOSEN UNDER RECOIL. Hand tighten only, do not use any tool to tighten the thread protector Remove the tool and unscrew the muzzle brake by hand.Ĥ. Insert a 1/8” allen wrench through the holes and rotate the brake counterclockwise until loose.ģ. ![]() Insert a 1/8” allen wrench through the holes and rotate the brake clockwise until it is secured tightly to the barrelĢ. Hand screw the muzzle brake on the barrel until snug.Ĥ. Remove the thread protector (if installed).ģ. Open the bolt, clear the chamber and magazine of all ammunition.Ģ. Please review your specific product barrel contour and length HERE for appropriate sizing. NON-WEATHERBY GUNSMITH BARREL THREADING VOIDS ACCURACY GUARANTEE & BARREL WARRANTY.Īccubrake is sized for both Barrel Contour and Barrel Length.
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